Dining Information

Buenos Aires is arguably Latin America's gastronomic capital. As well as the excellent and ubiquitous pizza and pasta restaurants common to the country as a whole, the capital offers an ever increasing number of cosmopolitan cuisines, ranging from Turkish through Basque to Japanese. The city's crowning glory, however, for meat eaters at least, are its parrillas . At the top end of the range, there are restaurants offering the country's choicest beef ooked on an asador criollo, that is staked around an open fire. There are plenty of humbler places, too, where you can enjoy a succulent parrillada in a lively atmosphere. There are excellent restaurants throughout the city but, with a few exceptions, the centre and the south are best for the city's most traditional restaurants whilst the north is the place to head for if you're looking for more innovative or exotic cooking. Puerto Madero , the recently renovated port area, is knee-deep in big, glitzy themed restaurants, though - a couple of decent places notwithstanding - these are hardly the capital's most exciting eating options. You'll find a far more original crop of restaurants around the hugely popular and trendy Las Cañitas area in Palermo (subte station Ministro Carranza or buses #29 and #60 bajo) and, increasingly, in Palermo Viejo , where restaurants are given added charm by being located in elegant late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century constructions.

Though most restaurants open in the evening at around 8pm, it's worth bearing in mind that most Porteños don't go out to eat much before 10pm, so unless you want a restaurant to yourself, you should probably do the same. Most restaurant kitchens close around midnight during the week, though at weekends many keep serving till the small hours. There are also plenty of confiterías and pizzerias that open all night, so you shouldn't have trouble satisfying your hunger at any time.

Vegetarian restaurants
It's not impossible to be a vegetarian in Buenos Aires, but it's not easy. There are a few vegetarian restaurants, but only a few, and most platos del día at cheaper restaurants include meat of some variety. Nonetheless, the situation is not as desperate as it might seem. Large salads with a healthy mix of ingredients are not too difficult to find on any menu and it's not unusual to come across milanesas de soja (breaded and fried soya); a la napolitana means it comes with cheese and tomato. Pasta al pesto or al fileto (with tomato sauce) is another possibility - also note that the stuffed pasta which is so popular in Argentina is more often filled with vegetarian options such as spinach, nuts and ricotta cheese than meat. Buenos Aires' trilogy of favourite pizzas, napolitana (with fresh tomato), muzzarella (mozzarella cheese and tomato) and fugazza (with onions), are meat free, as is the classic accompaniment, fainá, a pizza-shaped Genovese speciality made with chickpea dough, whose fairly bland but agreeable flavour is a surprisingly good complement to the more assertive pizza. Another standby is tarta de acelga or espinacas (spinach tart) and tortilla española (omelette with potato and onion). You needn't miss out on empanadas either; try queso y cebolla (cheese and onion) or humita (sweetcorn). If you do find yourself faced with a particularly meaty menu, it's always worth asking if the restaurant can fix you something else - Porteño waiters are generally amenable and used to dealing with fairly demanding customers. Of Buenos Aires'few dedicated vegetarian restaurants, two of the most established are La Esquina de las Flores and Ying-Yang.

The Centre
Arturito, Corrientes 1124 (tel 011/4382-0227). An old-fashioned oasis reigned over by courteous white-jacketed waiters, Arturito is a Corrientes landmark, and its bife de chorizo con papas (rump steak and chips) is an unquestionably good deal at just $5.

Bice, Av. Alicia M. de Justo 192 (tel 011/4315-6216). Style sometimes triumphs over content in Puerto Madero, but the excellent pasta and gnocchi at this highly regarded, if expensive, Italian restaurant will not disappoint.

Cervantes, Perón 1883. An old stand-by, and, with portions big enough for two, it's a great deal. Try the peceto al horno con papas (roast meat with potatoes). They also do huge salads.

Chiquilín, Sarmiento 1599 (tel 011/4373-5163). A classic Porteño restaurant serving traditional dishes at moderate prices such as pollo al verdeo (chicken with spring onions) in a friendly and stylish atmosphere.

Las Cuartetas, Corrientes 838. A pared down pizza and empanada joint where you can grab a slice of pizza at the counter or while away a few hours after the cinema over a cold Quilmes.

El Globo, Hipólito Yrigoyen 1199 (tel 011/4381-3926). Long-established, moderately priced, Spanish restaurant with a gorgeously old-fashioned interior, offering classic dishes such as camarones al ajillo (prawns with garlic) which are perfectly acceptable if rather lacking in Mediterranean flair.

Güerrín, Corrientes 1368. If you want a traditional Porteño pizza experience look no further than this Corrientes institution. The traditional order is a portion of muzzarella and fainá eaten at the counter and accompanied by a glass of sweet moscato. Some Porteños hold that the pizzas served in the proper dining area are a notch above the counter versions; however, all are inexpensive.

Parrilla Peña, Rodríguez Peña 682 (tel 011/4371-5643). Excellent parrilla at a reasonable price in a bustling atmosphere. Avoid the downstairs tables if you want to prevent your clothes reeking of grilled meat.

Patio San Ramón, Reconquista 269. Generous, well-cooked and inexpensive food with daily specials such as pollo al horno con puré de batata (roast chicken with sweet potato puree). The real attraction, however, is the stunning location in the patio of an old convent where, among palm trees and birdsong, you might even forget that you're at the heart of Buenos Aires' financial district. Lunchtimes only.

Pippo, Montevideo 341 (tel 011/4374-0762). Despite its fairly indifferent pasta and parrillada, Pippo has established itself as a Buenos Aires institution: it's worth paying this inexpensive, glaringly lit restaurant a visit just to catch a glimpse of Porteño dining in all its noisy, gesticulating glory. The thick vermicelli mixto, with bolognese sauce and pesto, is a good deal.

The London Grill and Oyster Bar, Reconquista 455 (tel 011/4311-2223). A real slice of old Anglo-Buenos Aires, serving up traditional English dishes such as lamb with mint sauce in an elegant if rather stuffy atmosphere. Closed weekends.

Tomo 1, Carlos Pellegrini 525, in Hotel Panamericano (tel 011/4326-6695). Considered by many to be Buenos Aires' best haute cuisine restaurant; an elegant but refreshingly unpretentious place where all the emphasis is on the exquisitely cooked food. There are lunchtime and evening set menus for around $50, offering dishes such as a terrine of zucchini with almonds and an à la carte menu, with a superb magrets of duck accompanied by pears and rosemary.

The South
Almacén y Bar, Cochabamba 1701, Constitución; subte station Entre Ríos or buses #6, #12 and #37. Upmarket picadas comprising Argentinian and imported cheeses, cured ham and shellfish, plus an excellent wine list. Closed Sat evening and all day Sun.

Basque Français, Moreno 1370, Montserrat (tel 011/4304-4841). For over a hundred years, this restaurant has been serving up expertly cooked seafood such as squid, octopus and fruits de mer . Expensive but delicious, and more affordable if there are a few of you to share dishes. Closed Sun.

La Cancha, Brandsen 697, La Boca (tel 011/4362-2975). A classic place to spend a weekend lunchtime - in the shadow of La Bombonera - Boca Juniors' legendary football stadium. Good fresh seafood including excellent pulpo a la gallega (octopus with oil and paprika) to share between two.

Cantina 3 Amigos, Necochea 1200, La Boca (tel 011/4301-2441). Particularly garishly decorated Boca cantina offering the usual mix of pasta, chicken and seafood at moderate prices accompanied by loud cumbia and merengue. Evenings only (ring first).

La Casa de Esteban de Luca, Carlos Calvo 383, San Telmo (tel 011/4361-4338). Housed in a famous eighteenth-century building once occupied by the poet and journalist Esteban de Luca, this popular San Telmo restaurant serves up typical Porteño dishes with an imaginative twist.

El Desnivel, Defensa 855, San Telmo. This popular, no-frills parrilla offers good food at rock- bottom prices. Closed Mon.

La Gran Taberna, Combate de los Pozos 95, Monserrat (tel 011/4951-7586). A popular, bustling and down-to-earth restaurant just a block from Congreso. The vast menu offers a mixture of Spanish dishes, including a good selection of seafood, and Porteño classics as well as a sprinkling of more exotic dishes such as ranas a la provenzal (frogs' legs with parsley and garlic). Many of the dishes are large enough to share. Prices are very reasonable, too, and service is friendly, though it can be a bit slow during busy periods.

Laurak-Bat, Belgrano 1144, Montserrat (tel 011/4381-0682). This moderately priced restaurant within Club Vasco has as its centrepiece an oak tree said to be descended from the "Arbol de Guérnica" planted by God, according to Basque tradition. On a more down-to-earth note, the restaurant offers Basque specialities such as bacalao al pil-pil (salt cod in a garlicky sauce) and serves complimentary sherry and tapas.

El Obrero, Caffarena 64, La Boca (tel 011/4362-9912). With the Boca Juniors souvenirs on the walls, and tango musicians moving from table to table at weekends, the atmosphere at the hugely popular and moderately priced El Obrero is as much a part of the attraction as the simple home-cooked food. Closed Sun.

Parrilla 1880, Defensa 1665, San Telmo (tel 011/4305-1746). A classic and extremely good parrilla joint right opposite Parque Lezama. The walls are lined with photos and drawings from the restaurant's famous and mostly bohemian clients and the very friendly owner passes from table to table making sure that everyone is happy. Prices are reasonable too. Daily until about 12.30am.

Patagonia Sur, Rocha 801, La Boca (tel 011/4303-5917). Very smart place run by the leading Argentine chef, Francis Mallmann. The interesting menu combines French sauces with top-rate lamb, beef and seafood from Patagonia. Closed Sun evening.

Il Piccolo Vapore, Necochea 1190, La Boca (tel 011/4301-4455). Lively Boca cantina , offering set four-course menu plus unlimited wine and soft drinks at $20-25 per head for small groups or $16 for groups of fifteen or more. Cabaret, live music and dancing take centre stage though. Evenings only (ring first).

El Puentecito, Luján 2101, Barracas (tel 011/4301-1794). This hundred-year-old restaurant in the traditional barrio of Barracas is well worth a trip for the generous puchero (boiled meat and vegetables), parrilla and seafood. Best of all, it's open round the clock.

Plaza Mayor, Venezuela 1399. The trouble with many Spanish restaurants in Argentina is that they will seem inordinately expensive to anyone used to the cheap and delicious seafood available in Spain itself. Nonetheless, Plaza Mayor is one of the better places, offering excellent merluza (hake) and a pretty decent paella at moderate prices. The restaurant is also famous for its pan dulce (pannetone), for which queues regularly form around Christmas and New Year.

Rimini, Necochea 1234, La Boca (tel 011/4302-6900). One of the oldest of Necochea's famous cantinas , serving up a menú fijo of the usual chicken and pasta for $15, plus lively music until 4am. Evenings only (ring first).

The North
Afrodita, Báez 121, Palermo (tel 011/4772-6527). This newly opened restaurant in the phenomenally successful Las Cañitas area offers imaginative pasta dishes such as ravioles de calabaza (pumpkin ravioli) at moderate prices in a stylish atmosphere. Evenings only.

Almacén Cabrera, Cabrera 4399, Palermo (tel 011/4832-4670); buses #140, #142 from Córdoba. An attractive restaurant - the building was a traditional almacén - serving above average pasta, chicken and parrillada at below average prices. Good service and attention to detail. Evenings only, plus Sun lunch.

Armenia, Armenia 1366 (tel 011/4775-7494), Palermo Viejo. Delicious and authentic Armenian food, including smoked ham, boreks, kepe and falafel, served in simple surroundings.

Azafrán, Honduras 5143 (tel 011/4832-6487), Palermo Viejo. Spanish dishes such as paella, plus a wide selection of tapas including chorizo and broad beans on Sundays only. Closed Mon.

Burmana, Av. del Libertador 2701, Olivos (tel 011/4799-5347). Exotic surroundings, plus oriental music and belly dances. The Armenian and Middle Eastern specialities, such as tarama, lamb kebabs and kataif, are served with panache.

La Casa Polaca, J.L. Borges 2076, Palermo Viejo (tel 011/4774-7621). The infectious good humour of the owner, who wanders from table to table, goes a long way to turning eating at La Casa Polaca into a memorable experience. There's piano music too and plenty of hearty Eastern European food.

La Cátedra, Cerviño 4699, Palermo (tel 011/4777-4601). Classic Argentine restaurant in a beautiful neocolonial house, with some unusual twists - like fruit sauces - to a standard menu.

Club del Vino, Cabrera 4737, Palermo (tel 011/4833-0048); buses #140 and #142. With a modern Argentinian menu including duck, lamb and seafood, this small and elegant restaurant shares the space with a music venue (tango and jazz) and a wine bar. Evenings only. Closed Sun.

Club Sírio, Ayacucho 1496, Recoleta (tel 011/4806-5764). Every Argentine city has its Syrian club-restaurant but this palatial place is one of the best. Excellent mezze-style buffet. Belly-dancing Thurs-Sat. Closed all Sun.

Colbeh Melahat, Av. del Libertador 13041, San Isidro (tel 011/4793-3955). Let the owners advise you what to have at Argentina's only Persian restaurant, but the lamb cooked in pomegranate juice is unforgettable. Closed Sun and lunchtime.